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Exploring the Mediterranean — One Season at a Time

There is a tangible sense of history when you’re on a boat passing by the remains of a citadel, or having an anchorage to yourself under ancient fortifications. These sights and the history they represent are found all around the Mediterranean, and really are one of the main attractions for cruising here. Others include warm, clear water; tranquil to vigorous sailing conditions; and access to multiple countries with their people and unique cultures. Here are a few highlights from our last three seasons in the Med. In 2017, after enjoying the popular Porquerolles, a group of islands close to Toulon, France, we left the anchorage at oh-dark-hundred and enjoyed several hours of great sailing to the rugged island of Corsica. It was an auspicious moment when we passed under the massive citadel walls that had withstood the ravages of time and man for centuries. It evoked a feeling that our lives were very transient and insignificant. Then we rounded the bend into the bay and into the incongruity of superyachts, jet skis, kiteboards, tour boats, hotels and beach clubs. Welcome to the Med!

Mediterranean
Yachts stern-tied to shore in Fiscardo Bay, Kefalonia.
© 2021 Stan Calin/Dreamstime.com

In the Mediterranean there are so many destinations in close proximity that you can change your plans as needed and still be very happy. Two years ago we were transiting the Strait of Messina en route to Montenegro for the winter. It was very exciting passing by Charybdis and Scylla from Homer’s Odyssey fame. (The entertaining translations for these were “the sucker-down” and “the render.”) After transiting, we changed our minds and turned right instead of left. We ended up wintering the boat in Marina di Ragusa, Sicily, which had a wonderful cruising community. The change of plans also meant we needed an alternative to Montenegro for the VAT reset, and that’s how we ended up in Yasmin Hammamet in Tunisia, which was both a safe and an interesting place to be during the 2018 ‘Medicane.’

The Citadel of Calvi in Corsica, viewed here through Rightmeow‘s portal, was built in the 12th century to repel invaders.
© 2021 s/v Rightmeow

The Balearic Islands off the coast of Spain have a real ‘summer vacation’ vibe, and although we didn’t make it to Ibiza, where the party is said to be nonstop, we did get into the flow of tapas and dinner after 10:30 p.m. on Mallorca and Menorca.

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1 Comment

  1. Mark Thierman 3 years ago

    Sounds wonderful. What is open now? I have a 58 foot Cat (Ocean jedi) that I sailed from St Martin to Lagos Portugal just over a year ago. I flew back to the States while the boat went on the hard for bottom paint, and there she stayed due to Covid 19. Getting ready to relaunch in May and to continue around the Med for a while. Keep your reports coming so we know what’s open, where to stay and can follow in your footsteps, just in case Active Captain isn’t up to date.

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Eight Bells
Point Richmond resident and adventurer Chris Welsh passed away suddenly on March 15 at age 58. Rarely if ever does one cross paths with an individual as interesting or as accomplished as Chris.