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Dear Warm-Water California Sailors: An Invitation to the PNWO

Dear Warm-water California Sailors:

When asked why he wanted to climb Mount Everest, George Mallory said, “Because it is there.” Those of us who compete in the Pacific Northwest International Offshore Yacht Race (aka PNWO or just “the Offshore”), formerly known as the Oregon Offshore International Yacht Race, are often asked the same thing, and the best most of us can come up with is the same — because it is there.

Next year will be the 50th running of the race, and I am writing to invite you to consider joining the hardy and, admittedly slightly crazy, souls on the journey. The Notice of Race has not yet been published, but the race will almost certainly begin Thursday, May 14, 2026.

The Offshore starts just outside the mouth of the Columbia River, then goes up the Washington coast to Cape Flattery, then down the Strait of Juan de Fuca to finish at Victoria, B.C., for a total of 193 nautical miles. Racers gather in Ilwaco, Washington, where the night before the start there is a skippers’ meeting and weather briefing. Depending on various factors, racers generally finish in 24 to 48 hours. The fastest record of about 15 hours was set in 2014. The slowest record, set by yours truly in 2013, was a few minutes under the race limit of 72 hours. In my defense, it was my first Offshore, I have a slow boat, there was very light wind, and we refused to give up.

Given its various challenges, the Offshore is certainly not for everybody. (1) Everybody has to first travel some distance to get to Ilwaco, with some coming down from Vancouver and Seattle; (2) Just to get to the starting line one has to cross the Columbia Bar, known as one of the most dangerous bars in the world, and affectionately referred to as the Graveyard of the Pacific. (3) Both the starting and finish lines are virtual, thus requiring navigation skills not usually employed. (4) From a tactical and navigational standpoint the race is broken down into three parts, each with its own difficulties — the sail north to the turn at Cape Flattery, with its often-adverse winds and currents, plus variable weather systems; the race inbound up the strait toward Race Rocks, also with its own weather and currents; and finally the leg between Race Rocks and the finish line, requiring the decision whether to go through or around Race Rocks. (5) Regardless of the weather, it usually involves being wet, cold and sleep-deprived, and at about halfway through, wondering what possessed you to sign up for such a race, though the approach to Victoria erases those memories. On the other hand, it is a true offshore race in offshore conditions, and the scenery can be amazing and often involves seeing a good deal of wildlife, including whales (grays, humpbacks and orcas).

Phil Lewis and crew cross the Columbia Bar aboard Phil’s Cal 34 Soufflé.
© 2025 Phil Lewis

Safety is an important component and is given serious attention by the race organizers. Each boat must meet safety criteria set out in the Safety Equipment Rules. For the SERs applied to the 2025 race, along with other information, go to https://www.cycportland.org/race-information. It bears noting that to date nobody has gone overboard, been seriously hurt, or died. I cannot speak to any effects it has had on pocketbooks and/or marriages.

Not all who participate are highly competitive handicap racers sailing big high-tech sleds. But all who can meet the safety standards are welcome. A few, like me, sail classic, old, slow boats and compete in cruising class. But all who make it to Victoria achieve a great sense of accomplishment and satisfaction. Plus, we are met by a welcoming committee with hot towels for all on board and a bottle of (admittedly cheap but satisfying) sparkling wine. And, on Sunday, we are bussed to the Royal Victoria Yacht Club, a right proper yacht club, for BBQ and awards and more camaraderie.

Other benefits of competing in the Offshore include being present to participate in the 81st running of the Swiftsure International Race; the Offshore’s status as a qualifying race for those interested in the famed Victoria-Maui Race as well as the Pacific Cup; and visiting Victoria, not only a beautiful city, but right around the corner from the scenic San Juan Islands and the Canadian Gulf Islands.

So again, the Offshore, with its physical and mental challenges, is certainly not for everybody. But I certainly hope that you will consider joining us next year. If you have any questions, write to [email protected] or visit www.pacificnwoffshore.org.

– Phil Lewis, Soufflé, Cal 34

No, this is not a photo of Phil smiling during the Offshore Race; he’s enjoying a well-earned respite in the warm waters of the Caribbean.
© 2025 Phil Lewis

 

1 Comments

  1. Ken Brinkley 4 months ago

    Didn’t a boat get breached by a whale a few years back in the offshore?

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