Redwood City High School Teacher James Bender, Teaching in Croatia
People say the three great reasons to be a teacher are June, July and August. Captain James Bender is a shop teacher in Redwood City who, for the past several years, has spent those three months continuing to teach, though in the islands of Croatia. There, he has restored traditional wooden craft, bridged the gulf between nations in the Balkans with boats, and run outdoor educational trips for the local youth. He sent us a short update of his summer life. He’ll be back in the fall to teach locally and continue volunteering with Peninsula Youth Sailing Foundation.
As I sat and looked out over the islands, I was thinking back to the years before. I was sure that this was the fifth year we have done the Kornati Adventure, but my friend Lovro Skracic, whose family works the land and has hosted us each year, said, “No, it is six years; I am sure of it.” I trust Lovro. Not only to remember how long we have done trips, but also with all things related to the islands. Together we have run to catch the sheep, gotten up before dawn on the hot summer days to go collect the sage and other herbs for oils his family produces, cast the nets to catch fish, and sailed the traditional boats Gajeta (GUY-et-a) and Leut (LAY-oot) between the narrow channels of the Kornati archipelago.
Yesterday we went to visit Jakov on the island of Piskera. We first met more than 10 years ago during the race to Palagruza, the most remote island in Croatia. He used to work for the lighthouse service; now he lives full-time in the Kornati islands. He has sheep, and makes olive oil and grappa, or rakija in Croatian. He now has a family and they support his dream of returning to the land that his family has had for more than 175 years. A day well spent with friends enjoying homemade delights, hearing about and seeing how working the land has transformed him and his family: This is the Kornati Adventure. A journey to the heart of what matters, connection to the land and sea, friends and family, to live in body and spirit with the natural environment around you to understand truly what it means to live in a remote archipelago without access to stores and shops.
Jakov’s phone rings — back to reality. His wife is coming from town with boxes of staples and treats for the kids. She has gotten a lift from Slobodan Skracic on his wooden boat named Crna Macka (SER-na MACH-ka), Black Cat. He helped years before, transporting the kids to Kravljacica. We get to meet again mid-channel while loading boxes. Now well into his 70s, Slobodan has lived on this island since before World War II and has many stories to tell. As we say goodbye, I am reminded that with each new generation some traditions are lost, but many are gained, and each turn of the tide carries new energy and effort of preservation and diligence that endures to keep the things that matter alive.
The trip to the islands has been a good respite from work on Vinka, our traditional boat that has been in the shop since before the pandemic. Last week we finished the engine installation. Now, with a bit of cabinetry and electrical work to go, we hope all will be well for the launch of the summer program, but things are tight. With each day that passes in the islands I am torn. I need to be here and there at the same time. The pressure from each side gains strength as it is only a few more days till the students arrive. We know that the time passes, and especially here in Croatia it is impossible to rush, to force, or push things along. It is then that mistakes are made, relationships burdened, and what gains are made are inevitably diminished with force that is exerted. For now we will continue to work with concentration and attention to detail knowing that what we do will be for the greater good, for kids to have fun with the boat and for the preservation of tradition for all who participate.
There is, however, a bit of nervous anticipation, as there is with all things when you push the limits. The third phase of restoration of Vinka started in 2020, just before the pandemic. We have worked hard over the past few years getting the boat in shape. Now I am in Kornati getting things set for the trip and they are putting finishing touches on the boat, and we should be done by Thursday or Friday. We hope to launch the boat Saturday, and the students come the following week. With each day that passes I feel the anticipation of a new phase for Vinka, for our program, and for the students who participate. They will now have a boat that they can use and learn seamanship, navigation, teamwork, communication and all the other skills it takes to sail a traditional lateen-rigged craft.
We did a podcast with Captain/Dr. James Bender in fall 2023.