As communications infrastructure is re-established in Fiji, a clearer picture of Tropical Cyclone Winston’s devastation continues to emerge. In addition to an untold number of homes and businesses that were damaged or destroyed, especially in outlying islands, the death toll, currently at 44, continues to rise. 

Food and other supplies are only now beginning to reach more remote areas, where many islanders have remained in dire need since the Category 5 storm clobbered the multi-island nation last Saturday. Some cruising sailors are helping with those efforts, including Jennifer Martindale and Bruce Harbour of the Montana-based St. Francis 44 cat Skabenga. Having weathered Winston’s wrath in a mangrove lagoon near Denerau, on the island of Viti Levu, they are now "fully loaded with food, hardware and meds," and will soon head out on a relief mission, working in conjunction with the nonprofit Sea Mercy.

The organization reports, "Most of the directly impacted islands experienced a major tidal storm surge after the cyclone passed. This meant all debris, pots and pans, clothing, food, etc. was washed out to sea, which means that they have been left with nothing." The agency seeks a wide variety of relief items ranging from diapers to fishing supplies.

"Storms are nothing new to the people living on the remote islands," the nonprofit’s website notes, "however a ‘once-in-a-century’ cyclone of this magnitude has never been seen by those living there." Sustained winds reached upward of 130 mph.

In general, it seems that visiting sailors were luckier than most island residents. Many cruising boats weathered the storm with little or no damage at Vuda Point Marina on Viti Levu due to the 360-degree protection of its boat basin and, according to Manager Adam Wade, the "phenomenal efforts" of the staff. "Many of them stayed at the marina right up until the very last minute prepping the boats for your [their customers’] safety… These guys ended up risking their lives during the height of the storm, walking single file, holding each other by the shirt in horizontal rain in the pitch black and barely able to hear each other with trees falling around them to get to yachts in the water that needed assistance. Heroic does not even seem strong enough a word to describe them."

Tragically, some of those employees lost their homes to Winston. If you are among the thousands of cruisers who have stayed at Vuda Point, you might want to visit the marina’s Facebook page and learn how you can contribute to the welfare of those dedicated employees.

Given all the spectacular anchorages and great folks at Antigua, it’s a pity we’re leaving today for Jolly Harbour to set up the 70-mile broad reach to St. Barth on Friday. Before we leave, we’d like to share another photo we took of the anchorage at Green Island with our drone.

The magnificent schooner off to the right in the photo is Germania Nova, a 196-footer built in 2009 that is a replica of the original Germania, which was built in 1908. The second photo shows what she looks like under sail. The good news is that she’s for sale. Maintenance, however, is going to cost a pretty penny, so think twice before taking a leap.

In our previous report from Antigua, we mentioned that we’d seen a bloke from London t-bone a local’s 27-ft sloop, putting a big hole in the side of her hull. The operator readily admitted guilt, but then his daughter, possibly a lawyer, started mumbling something ridiculous like “the transmission broke.” There was no problem with the transmission; the problem was the first-time operator didn’t realize that you lose steering on most Jet Skis once you back off the throttle. And that there are consequences when you drive a Jet Ski at 25 knots in a 5-knot zone.

We befriended Tony, the local owner of the boat. We shuttled him around to see the perpetrator and local officials, hoping we could make sure he didn’t get screwed. Yesterday we got a phone call from Tony, who happily reported that he’d been given nearly $5,000 in compensation. We’re not sure that’s going to be enough to properly repair the boat. On the other hand, it might be more than the value of the boat itself, which has seen hard times. But at least he’s happy.

The photo of the woman at the ancient windlass used to pull British ships onto their sides for hull cleaning is Doña de Mallorca. Thirty years before we’d taken almost the same photo of her. After speaking for about 15 minutes, we didn’t see her again for 10 years. We’ve been seeing her pretty regularly for the last 20 years.

We’ve had such a great time at Antigua, which has enough protected anchorages for at least a month of quiet cruising, that we’re putting the island back in heavy rotation for next year.