Latitude 38 has featured Webb Chiles before — the intrepid singlehanded sailor and author has circumnavigated the globe five times under sail and is now in the final stages of preparing for an epic journey around the world in his flush-decked Moore 24 Gannet. We caught up with Webb in San Diego this week to get the latest info on his sailing plans, boat preparations and departure.
An eternally youthful Chiles beamed with pride of ownership and enthusiasm for his little grey Moore 24 as he showed off all of the unique mods that he’s done to make Gannet more suited for long-range solo sailing. Starting at the bow, Webb’s installed a removable carbon-fiber bowsprit for use with a furling assymmetrical spinnaker. Working sails consist of a roller-furling jib and user-friendly mast track and reefing system. Powered completely by flexible solar panels mounted flush to the deck, Webb’s boat has opted to rely solely on electric tiller pilots and does not carry a wind vane. Things are kept just as minimal and tidy down below, with the stock Moore 24 layout of two pipe berths and two mini nav stations.
Now back in Illinois with his (sixth) wife Carol, the 72-year-old plans to return to San Diego in early May, make last minute preparations, and leave for Hilo, Hawaii. From Hawaii, Webb plans to make one long passage to French Polynesia, and then another long passage to his second home of Opua, New Zealand. He will not be stopping at all of the idyllic islands along the way. After all, he’s been to French Polynesia seven times. After New Zealand, Webb’s route is still up in the air. Says Webb, “I don’t have any doubt that a Moore 24 can survive a tradewind circumnavigation. Can it survive the Southern Ocean? Well, I’m going to spend 6,000 or 7,000 miles figuring that out, and then decide whether to head for Cape Horn or for Australia.”
We’ll run the interview and a feature on Webb Chiles in the May issue of Latitude 38 just before he sets off.
There’s still time to make plans and prepare your crew and boat for BAMA’s 35th Doublehanded Farallones Race on Saturday, March 22, to the new requirements defined in the Notice of Race and Sailing Instructions. The early registration discount ends March 15. The skippers’ meeting, on March 19, 7:00 p.m., at Oakland YC, will focus on ‘Freak Waves’ and incidents in the Gulf of the Farallones with LCDR Amy Wirts, Waterways Management Division Chief, USCG Sector San Francisco on Rescue 21 DSC, plus other updates. A demo workshop on DSC is planned, so bring your DSC-VHF handheld. Help with GPS downloads, Jibeset, and a review of new resources to improve safety will be available when the doors open at 5:30 p.m.
This will be the second year for the ‘Double Dame’ crew award, and BAMA is pleased to announce that the DHF is part of the new doublehanded series Greater March Madness. Check the 15-day forecast here. See www.sfbama.org for updates and details.
A representative of Hacienda, the Mexican IRS, has told 75-year-old American John Hards of the Nuevo Vallarta-based Pelican that he is to be fined 84,000 pesos — a little under $7,000 — for a typo in his Temporary Import Permit. Hacienda told Hards, who lives off Social Security, that he could get a 20% "discount" if he pays within 20 days. Hards was given a 55-page document, in Spanish, explaining the fine. That AGACE would spend so much time and effort on an easily explained typo that wasn’t of Hard’s doing defies understanding.
Hards had previously told Latitude that he ran afoul of AGACE, a subagency of Hacienda, in late November over a typo on his TIP. "I got my 10-year permit at Salina Cruz in 2009 when returning from a granddaughter’s surfing trip south. As I was getting a 10-year permit in 2009, it obviously should have had a "valid until" date of 2019. Unfortunately, somebody at Banjercito, the military bank that collects fees for TIPs, mistakenly wrote in ‘2010’ instead of ‘2019’ in the "valid until" space. 2010 was the date my then-tourist visa expired, which has nothing to do with a TIP. After my boat was impounded in late November, a very nice lady at the new Banjercito office in Puerto Vallarta patiently explained that the "valid until" date has no meaning for a 10-Year TIP, and that since my current TIP was indeed good until 2019, I couldn’t get a replacement."
Despite the hassle when his boat was first impounded, Hards wrote the following: "I have many friends who worry about me, and may get too fussy with perceived threats, but I am thankful every day for my retirement in Mexico." Given the fine, we’re not sure how Hards feels now. He’s spent the last couple of days looking for lawyers.
When Hards returned to his boat on Thursday, he was informed that he could no longer deal with AGACE/Hacienda, as the matter had been turned over to the courts. Except for attorney fees, it seems this is a good thing, because any halfway fair-minded judge is going to dismiss the fine.
That any part of the Mexican government could not accept its responsibility for the typo on Hards’ TIP makes us want to bang our head against the wall. We’ve spent 30+ years being the biggest promoters of nautical tourism to Mexico, and then they pull something like this that is so unfair and so stupid. It’s not uncommon for Mexico to reduce fines from an initial $100,000 U.S. to $25, but even if that happens, or if the court throws the judgment out, it’s still outrageous. For what it’s worth, the few boats at San Carlos Marina that didn’t have any TIP were fined just $113.
The other day we received the following email from a member of the King Harbor YC: "I am scheduled to be in this year’s Newport to Ensenada Race, but will probably withdraw. Even though my crew might call me a wimp, I absolutely cannot risk my boat being part of an AGACE hassle. It’s not my crew’s boat that would be embargoed."
So the situation in Mexico continues to be this: For the vast majority of owners of foreign-owned boats in Mexico, everything is hunky dory, and they are having a grand time. But for those unlucky few who still haven’t had their boats released after three months — despite being perfectly legal — or for those who are getting screwed by Mexico’s myopic sense of right and wrong, it’s an ongoing nightmare.
In Wednesday’s CB #2, we reported on how we discovered that rats/mice had gotten aboard the Wanderer’s Olson 30 La Gamelle and started feasting on candle wax, tampons, boogie boards, mayonnaise, a North Gatorback main, and other goodies. In the case of the mainsail, the joke was on them, however, as the ancient main — without reef points! — was headed for the trash anyway.
We’re sure the rats/mice had no trouble getting up onto the boat because her hurricane tie-downs were webbing, which is like a ladder for rodents. Later we learned that the immediate area our boat was in hadn’t been anything like it a few months before.
"When we got here in October, there were weeds as high as the toerail of your boat," laughed former San Francisco restaurateur Juliano Darbe, who hauled his Challenger 40 Serenity at the St. Martin Shipyard about when we did in May. Rats, weeds, it didn’t really make any difference to us, as neither did any damage.
However, La Gamelle did have water up to the floorboards — there is no keeping all the water out during the torrential squalls of summer — and because of the humidity, a lot of mold. We’re going to have to put out some bowls of Clorox to take care of that. Or better yet, hire someone to clean it up.
The St. Martin Shipyard couldn’t be much more than 300 feet from the runway at the Princess Juliana Airport in St. Martin, where 747s are notorious for jet-washing beachgoers into Maho Bay. (Google it and get a giggle.) As a result, all the boats in the shipyard — even La Gamelle, easily the smallest — had to have red flags hoisted to their mastheads. It seemed a little silly to us, as no pilot was going to be able to see a red flag at night, and the mast on La Gamelle, being half the height of those on many nearby boats, wasn’t going to be much of a threat to a 747 that had already missed the runway by 300 feet. But we don’t know anything about aviation.
The St. Martin Shipyard is a bit of a mess as shipyards go. The hardstand is dirt and there is junk all around. But they haul some pretty impressive boats, in particular larger catamarans. They were doing a lot of work on hull #2 of the Sunreef 80 cats that are built in Poland. We can assure you that an 80-foot cat is almost unfathomably larger than a 63-ft cat such as Latitude’s Profligate. Hank, the very likable Dutch manager of the shipyard, told us that when he went aboard, he saw that the bilges are over six feet deep. In other words, if the average American stood on the inside of the bottom of the hull, the floorboards would be over his head!
Hank told us that the original Sunreef had been built too heavy, so they ended up building #2 too light. As a result, the bow was way out of the water, causing all kinds of problems. The first attempt at a solution was to put 10,000 pounds of weight in the bows. On a catamaran! That didn’t work, so there was a small army of workers doing all kinds of nasty work on that monster of a boat. However, it didn’t mean the German owner couldn’t go sailing, as he also owns the nearby dark blue-hulled Lagoon 67, which was also hauled out. She’s for sale.
The shipyard uses a monster-size radio/controlled Sea Lift to haul the boats out and put them back in the water. This contraption — the much bigger brother of the one used to launch ‘ti Profligate in the British Virgins — is about 120 feet long and about 20 feet high. The employees park their cars beneath it to protect them from the tropical sun. The Sea Lift is that big.
Displacing a mere 3,000 pounds, all La Gamelle needed to be dropped in the water was a fork lift, as is commonly used in California. Alas, the only smaller thing the Shipyard had than the Sea Lift was a crane that was as tall and powerful as it was old. It may have been the first one ever made.
Anyway, the West Indian crew undid the tie-downs, put on the straps, and up in the air she went. La Gamelle was the model of diversity, as no two of her fenders were alike. She had a big round orange one, a white one big enough for a 100-footer, a small white one, and a bright blue one. We were so proud.
People aren’t so uptight in the Caribbean, so when we asked Hank if de Mallorca could climb aboard the crane for a staged photo op with the boat in the air, he said sure, as if it were the most natural request in the world. We were going to ask him to let her lower the boat into the water, but we figured we’d save that for next time.
As soon as La Gamelle was floating, the West Indian crew advised us to hop aboard and check for leaks.
"Don’t need to," we said.
"She doesn’t have any thru-hulls."
They looked at us as though we were speaking a patois they didn’t understand.
Since La Gamelle doesn’t have an engine, de Mallorca took the helm, and we got into the 12-ft Carib and started pushing the transom. This is 10 times more effective than trying to tow the Olson with a dinghy. And an Olson doesn’t need much of a push to get moving.
There were two hurdles, if you will, to getting La Gamelle out to Simpson Bay and tied up behind ‘ti Profligate, her mothership. The first was the new Causeway Bridge that cuts across Simpson Lagoon. To our eyes it’s a hideous structure that mars the natural beauty of St. Martin. At night it’s even worse, because it lights up and changes colors like those massive pylons at the entrance to LAX. Most locals seem to be proud of it, despite the fact that it apparently hasn’t alleviated traffic much at all.
The Causeway Bridge consists of two long ramps, then an island in the center, on which a bridge section rotates, allowing boats to pass at selected times during the day. Although new, it seems to be having as many problems at the new East Bay span. "And it’s not a Caribbean job," said Hank with a jolly laugh, "we Dutch designed and built it." If you live and work in the Caribbean, you get used to nothing working as it should.
Anyway, the Causeway Bridge worked as it should, so shortly before 4 p.m., we were on the Dutch side of Simpson Bay, waiting for the lift bridge to open so we could head out into the Caribbean Sea. The 4 p.m. bridge opening is a popular tourist attraction that packs the nearby St. Martin YC to the gills, as it usually features at least several megayachts squeezing out the narrow opening. Even after Leslie Wexner — he of Victoria’s Secret and other women’s clothing endeavors — paid a lot of money to have the opening made bigger so his 235-ft Unlimited could pass through, skippers have still had trouble. The banged up timbers and cement walls on the side of the opening are testament to botched transits
Anyway, all the boats made it out fine, including gallant little La Gamelle. Yet the next day this would be the scene of one of the biggest frights of our lives. More on that in the next Caribbean Dispatch.