Alamedans Mingle With Global Cruising Community in Caleta Partida

Following the Baja Ha-Ha each year, boats scatter to cruise the Sea of Cortez and the mainland. Heidi Stagg catches us up on some of the participants and Alameda sailors in Caleta Partida.

What started as a simple meet-up of two liveaboard couples on sailboats in the Sea of Cortez became an amazing gathering of 11 boats, 24 people and three dogs over four days anchored in Caleta Partida, a cove that divides Espiritu Santo and Isla Partida in Baja California Sur, Mexico.

Aaron and Heidi Stagg on Sonho, a Tayana Vancouver 42, and Hugh and Lynn Creasy on Happy, their Moody 45, had sailed separately to La Paz. Heidi and Hugh had been friends in the 1980s, living in Alameda and sailing with their families on San Francisco Bay. They reconnected in Marina Village Yacht Harbor when Happy and her crew made their way down the coast from their homeport of Seattle, WA, in summer 2022. Sonho set off to cruise in fall 2022, and Happy turned left out the Golden Gate in 2023.

As Heidi chatted with fellow dockmates in Marina de La Paz about the planned cruise to the nearby islands, the fleet began to grow. Three boats, also with Alameda connections and now calling La Paz their homeport, joined the fleet: Henri and Perla on Caracolita, a Westsail 32, Jim, Rob, Adam and Naailah on AudreyAnna Hope, a Catalina 42, and Lucy and John on Sukha, a Bristol 40. Henri worked for KPIX and lived on Caracolita at Fortman Marina before retiring and sailing south. Rob berths his Gulfstar 44 at Oakland Yacht Club and crewed on AudreyAnna Hope in the recent Ha-Ha. Lucy bought Sukha (formerly named Mary Ellen and berthed at MVYH) in Alameda and was part of the 2021 Ha-Ha. Heidi crewed with Lucy from Cabo San Lucas to Bahia de los Frailes and Bahia de los Muertos after the Ha-Ha.

Also cruising from La Paz were Kevin, Vicky, Paloma and Rommel on Dos Peces, a Bayliner 47, who made the trek from Seward, AK, in 2021, and the Ha-Ha Assistant Poobah, Patsy, singlehanding as usual on Talion, a Gulfstar 50, who has called La Paz home for over 10 years.

Happy made friends with four boats anchored in the cove and they joined the festivities: Jeroen and Jeanette from Amsterdam on Fidelis, an Amel 54, Ralf and Wiebke from Hamburg on Flora, a Hallberg-Rassy 43, Mark on Prole, a Colin Archer-design 32-ft boat he built in Bellingham, WA, and Alex and Paige from Seattle, WA, on Chandelle a Morgan-designed 45-ft one-off.

Caleta Partida is a well-protected, large moorage located 12 miles from La Paz with gorgeous turquoise blue water and very shallow shoals. Boats anchor along the edge of the shoal in 12-20 feet of water in good-holding white sand, or deeper in the bay with depths up to 100 ft. The islands were formed by volcanic activity eons ago and provide shade and a breathtaking view of flora and fauna. Small rock formations are visible on shore at low tide, and the beaches are a shell-seeker and bone collector’s dream.

At high tide, dinghies can maneuver around a spit and access the east side of the islands to view ancient drawings inside caves, and tiny, pristine beaches. Care needs to be taken to get back before the low tide or you’ll be dragging your dinghy a few hundred yards, or having to motor all the way around the islands to get back to the cove.

The fleet participated in morning yoga on the beach led by Lynn and Naailah, with four first-timers taking part. Pelicans dove for fish and gulls laughed while we stretched and posed. Evening entertainment included a beach potluck complete with a bonfire and lighting of a Chinese bamboo-framed lantern, grilled sausages on Dos Peces, and the taking down of the jib followed by appetizers and a raucous game of Cards Against Humanity on Talion. The northern winds kept a group from visiting the caves but made for a sporty dinghy ride across the spit into six-foot swells on the east side. Folks chose boat chores, beach walks and siestas to fill the rest of the time. Some got into the warm, 71-degree water for bottom cleaning and swimming. Fast friendships were made with many differences in languages, age ranges and lifestyles, and the common denominator being the love of cruising.

The fleet slowly dispersed. Some back to their berths and moorings in La Paz, others continuing north up the Sea of Cortez. It was definitely a gathering for the logbooks with all looking forward to crossing courses on future journeys.

Heidi and Aaron Stagg lived on Sonho at Marina Village Yacht Harbor in Alameda beginning in 2009 before leaving to go cruising in 2022. Aaron is a retired union electrician, and Heidi is an event coordinator who still uses her skills in Mexico for Club Cruceros de La Paz and island parties.

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