Profligate’s
Regress
May 14 – Golfo de Tehuantepec
“We’re tempting fate at what our Nobeltec
navigation software says is Lat 14.44.395, Lon 94.09.075,”
writes ‘Helsinkiman’ via Skymate email from aboard Profligate.
“The conventional wisdom for crossing the Golfo de Tehuantepec
is to keep ‘one foot on the beach’, as we’re told it blows offshore
at gale force an average of one day out of every two. Although
staying close to shore is much longer, it eliminates the opportunity
for big waves to develop. However, armed with a positive weather
report from Commander’s Weather and an adventuresome spirit,
the crew of Profligate decided on a rhumbline course across
the Gulf to 350-mile distant Puerto Angel, Mexico.
“So far the weather has been perfect!
The shrimp fleet has been out in force, fishing the edge of the
continental shelf. At this point the shelf drops from 260 feet
to more than 19,000 feet, making it one of the steepest and deepest
canyon walls on the planet. Some of the best fishing occurs when
currents well up from the deep. Before the weather turns bad,
the savvy fishermen are long gone back to shore, so we took their
presence to be a good omen. But it was crowded, so we had to
thread our way through the shrimpers – narrowly missing one unlit
panga that was using International Distress whistle signals instead
of the normal lights.
“Anticipating a pleasant crossing,
we turned the night watch over to John Pettitt, and turned in.
At 0100, on the 13th, John noted the perfect starry skies and
made a one word log entry – ‘Boring!’ What was he thinking?
“Twenty minutes later, we were surrounded
by tropical thunderstorms. By 0200, when your scribe took the
watch, it was time to batten the hatches, unplug the electronics
and stow them in the oven, and settle in for a spectacular light
show. The log entries for the remainder of the night were: ‘More
lightning, definitely not boring!’
“The storm passed, as all do, and
we are now moving at 9.5 knots, halfway across the Tehuantepec.
We are still drying out from the night before, including, unfortunately,
the electronics which got soaked inside the stove! John’s log
entries today have all been ‘No comment’. As he learned, in a
sea known for rapid, unpleasant changes of weather, it doesn’t
pay to tempt fate.
“We have had other highlights crossing
the Tehuantepec, many of which have been wildlife related. Coming
across a tern quietly resting on the back of a sea turtle was
great, but not half so much fun as watching Ian jumping and screaming
around on deck this morning. ‘Is he dancing to appease the weather
gods?’ we wondered. No, he had just put on a new pair of shorts
from the wash line, and discovered – belatedly – that a large
cricket had taken up residence in them during the night. The
jokes have been flying ever since. Is that a cricket in your
pants, or are you just happy to see me? As most men have special
names for their ‘privates’, we think Ian should be able to reserve
‘Jiminy’ for his.
“According to our Nobeltec Admiral
navigation software, we should arrive at Acapulco at 0630 on
Saturday, in time for showers, great food, and Mexican hospitality.”
Thanks to a more favorable current, Profligate
is now expected to arrive in Acapulco sometime this afternoon.
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